Archipelago - Finnhamn and Ingmarsö: Day 1 - Explore Stora Jolpan and Idholmen

This summer, I took the opportunity to explore two islands on Stockholm archipelago. I read about the Stockholm Archipelago Trail (SAT) that was completed last October. Some islands were selected to set up hiking trails. The hiking trails can be easy or moderate. I chose Finnhamn and Ingmarsö, as these two islands seem to have it all - a bakery in Ingmarsö, restaurant and a hostel. Plus a relatively easy hiking trail. Finnhamn is an archipelago by itself being a group of islands, most notably Stora Jolpan, Idholmen, and Lilla Jolpan. 

The trip was planned at the end of June, which was less than a month from our travel date. Since this is a short 3-days trip, I was not worried about planning this last minute. There was no problem in booking accommodation in the hostel. We booked a 2 bed cottage which includes breakfast. The cottage is outside the main building, about less than a minute walk. 

24 July 2025

Costs

1) Boat ticket - SEK186 one-way

2) Accommodation - 3 days 2 nights for a 2-bed cottage including breakfast - SEK2340. Additional SEK200 for rented bedsheet, comforter cover, pillowcase, and towel. It costs SEK180 if booked online. SEK785 per person per night including beddings. 

3) 2 Coffee and bun on boat - SEK89. There is a Fika offer (1 bun and 1 coffee) for SEK60.

4) Cocktail drink at the Rooftop bar (Takbar) - SEK145

5) Dinner at restaurant (there is only restaurant on Stora Jolpan island) - Toast skagen SEK265, cocktail Paradiset (vanilla vodka, sour apple, lime and sprite) SEK145, passion fruit cheesecake SEK130, pot au chocolate SEK120

The Story

We started our trip from Strömkajen, the jetty located in Kungträdgården. We took the 8.30am boat by Waxholmsbolaget and we were scheduled to arrive 3 hours later at Finnhamn. This is the last stop for the boat route and it makes its way back to Stockholm. During the summer, Waxholmsbolaget has its own ticket price. After the summer season, one can use the SL-train card to travel to the archipelago which is cheaper at SEK43 but there are not much activities after summer. 

There is a cafe on the boat with options for lunch, pastries, ice-cream, coffee and tea. Toilets are clean too.

The boat is divided into two sections - one section does not allow dogs and there are tables. The other section allows dogs and has foldable tables.

We shared a cinnamon bun and coffee. The coffee was quite thick so it was slightly bitter. Second fillings are allowed!

The buns and pastries come from Bageriet Kringlan. I am unsure which bakery this is referring to, as there are two bakeries with the same name. One is in Stockholm which I thought would be that as it is logistically reasonable but I read bad reviews about the bakery. The other one is in Ånge which is 5 hours' drive from Stockholm but it is a bakery that sells to grocery stores so it does sound more reasonable. Well, the pastries could be frozen and delivered on a weekly basis. It is highly unlikely that the buns and pastries were made fresh.

I bought my boat ticket on SL-app, which is the public transport app in Stockholm. Then, I scanned the code on a machine in the boat and got my ticket printed out. We have to give the printed ticket to the boat attendant when we disembark from the boat. I realised that it is possible for passengers to bypass the system by choosing the cheapest ticket and give to the boat attendant.

Finally, we arrive in Finnhamn!

We were very lucky with the weather. It was sunny. Better the sun than the rain. It was very hot and I had my hat on me during the entire stay when I am outdoors.

First stop, the restaurant. There is only one restaurant on Finnhamn, which means Finnhamn is a very small island. There is a rooftop bar so we decided to have a drink before we go to the hostel to check in. It is a lovely view from the rooftop bar. They serve pizza at the bar which is affordable compared to the food in the restaurant downstairs. 

For the first time, I decided to indulge in a cocktail drink. Refreshing and cooling. We were seated under a parasol. 

Beside the restaurant, there is a small grocery store that sells some bread, vegetable, and necessary items for example, sanitary napkins, baby diapers, shampoo, biscuits, milk, egg. They are quite expensive, though. But if really necessary, I don't think one bothers about the price. There are campers here and those who rent the cottages with cooking facilities. Ours don't have cooking facilities. 

Also, they sell toys and simple sports equipment. I should have brought my skipping rope.

Example of expensive vegetables and fruit. Of course, I understand that it costs money and time to transport the produce to the island. I am just giving an idea of how much it is needed to pay if you really need the produce.

Banana - SEK49 per kg. I buy mine for SEK16 per kg. 

Potato - SEK39 per kg. I buy potato for SEK10 per kg.

Super expensive eggs! 15 pieces for SEK80. That is SEK5,33 per egg. In town, an egg of similar packaging costs SEK2,50 each.

I think you get the idea of a touristy place when you see the place's namn printed on clothings and sold in the grocery store.

After our drink, we headed towards our hostel. 

There are film-watching activities here too. Really nice!

We decided to stop for lunch as it was not 2pm yet, the earliest check-in time. We saw a sign for Badplats (Swimming area) and had lunch there. There were mostly rocks and not a proper sandy area to walk in to the water. It smelt funny when we sat at the bench to eat.

I prepared lunch at home the day before. Chicken pasta salad so it can be eaten cold.

We were still 15 minutes early when we reached the hostel. The path is easy to walk. Gravel path. Clear signs too. 

The main building of the hostel.

We sat in the lounge until 2pm so that we can check-in. Even cushion covers have Finnhamn printed on it. It does seem kind of touristy here. 

One bathes and uses the toilet in the main building. The toilets and shower rooms are clean. 

Finally, we could check in. Our cottage was less than a minute walk from the main building. Our door is the one on the left in the photo. We paid to rent bedsheet, pillowcase, and towel from the reception. When we booked the room, we thought that we could bring our own but we realised it took too much space. It is cheaper by SEK20 if one books them during the room booking on the website. Yes, it became an expensive room when we rented the beddings and towel.

The cottage has two windows but only one could be opened. They should have installed a mosquito net at the door too so we could open the door at night. It was very warm at night as we have the afterrnoon and evening sun at our direction. A standing fan would have been a nice addition in the room. 

Outside our cottage is an outdoor gym and a dog area. 

We checked in and took a walk around Finnhamn. We did the trail as described in Stockholm Archipelago Trail. It is easy to identify the trail as there are tapes on the trees. There were many mosquitoes and gadflies. We had a theory that it might have comes from the latrine that was sent from Stockholm to Finnhamn to be used as fertiliser to grow strawberries here during the 19th century.  

Camping here costs SEK120 per place per 24 hours.

We walked past Paradisviken. This is where most families with children bring their kids to swim. It was very packed when we were there. There is a sandy beach here. However, it is very near the jetty. I cannot help but think about the boats that come in and releasing gasoline emissions from the motor. This is also the nearest to most of the cottages on the island. With the blazing heat, kids will not enjoy the walk to the beach opposite the restaurant. There are options to rent kayak, canoe, and stand-up paddling (SUP) board. 

We were happy when the SAT trail leads into the nature with large trees.

We reached the spot where we will row to Ingmarsö tomorrow. This is Batluffarleden. We saw a group rowing in. 

There are water pumps available on the island so we could fill our bottles easily.

Some of the rented cottages.

We passed two coops and a farm shop. Even the hens were under the shade. Expensive vegetables and eggs being sold. 

6 eggs för SEK45 which costs SEK7,50 per egg. Wow. Fresh potatoes for SEK50 per kg. In town, I get mine for SEK10 per kg. 

Mode of transportation in Finnhamn is ATV (All-terrain vehicle). We headed towards a swimming area to take a dip before dinner. There is a sandy beach near the sauna which is 5 meters from the restaurant. It was nice to dip in the cold waters and numb all the mosquito bites.

We booked a place in the restaurant at 6.30pm. 

My summer drink and I.

Bread came the same time as our main meal. Bad service, I would say. The bread does not taste good either. Dry and crumbly. I had a starter as a main meal where I ordered a full portion of toast skagen (prawn salad). A half portion as the starter comes with two slices of roasted bread. Toast skagen is a usual starter in Sweden. So, this is nothing unusual for me. 

We had dessert as we were still hungry. Passionfruit cheesecake was good. I will recommend it. Pot au chocolate is a chocolate custard that comes with candied nuts, lingon coulis with a taste of rum. Today, I learn that coulis is a thick sauce made by pureeing and straining the fruit. Coulis is a French word, that means to strain, which makes the food sound exotic. 

After dinner, we looked for the View Tower and found it near the hostel. This was 8.30pm.

Then, we went back to the hostel, aired our cottage, took a shower and brushed our teeth in the main building.

That was the end of Finnhamn's exploration. We walked on the trails in Stora Jolpan and Idholmen. We skipped Lilla Jolpan as there was nothing that attracted us on the map.