Archipelago - Rånö: Weekend camp

30 and 31 August 2025

The search to experience islands on the Stockholm archipelago continues. Today, my friend and I went to Rånö (Rån island). She wanted to camp and I convinced her to choose Rånö. There is a dedicated camping spot on the island plus there is a water pump. 

We took the 10.25am Waxholm boat from Nynäshamn (south of Stockholm) to Rånö, and the fare is 104kr for zone 3. The boat ride took us less than 1 hour. There were so many passengers on the boat and most of them got off at Nattarö, the first stop. This boat is smaller than the boat I took to Finnhamn last month. Lesser seats on the bottom deck and there is a small room on the upper deck but it gets very noisy very fast when people start talking as it is a closed room. There is a small cafe on the boat and the price is the same as on the boat to Finnhamn. There is one toilet on the boat.

It was a cloudy day. It was about 16 degrees and I know that I was going to be very cold, so I had my gloves on me. I should have brought thicker gloves though. What a huge difference from when I was in Finnhamn and Ingmarsö at the end of July where it was very hot. 

We arrived at Rånö at 11.15am. There were only 4 persons that disembarked from the boat. Us and two other girls. I suspected that there were not many tourists on the island as the sole restaurant on the island has already closed for the season. The grocery store is opened but for two hours only on Wednesdays and weekends after the summer season. 

The camping place is a 1km walk northwards from the jetty. It is an easy trail to get to the spot. The sign is clear and one cannot get lost. The island is smaller than both Finnhamn and Ingmarsö. 

The designated camping place. Unlike Finnhamn where it costs SEK120 per tent per 24 hours to camp, it is free here and maximum number of nights to stay here is 2 nights.

There was no one in sight. So, we had the opportunity to choose wherever we want to set up our tent. My friend brought her tent and we set it up. Then, we had our own-brought lunch on the rocks in front of the tent, with a view of the waters. I had sausage and vegetable pasta that I made the day before. It can be eaten cold so it is a perfect camping food.

After lunch, we took a walk on the Stockholm Archipelago Trail (SAT) that is clearly marked by the yellow, white and blue tapes along the way. We had our tea break along the way too with a view of the waters.

We walked the upper half of the island and that took us about 2.5 hours. Then, we headed back to our tent to prepare for dinner. My friend brought her camping stove and we cooked potato, lentil and carrot soup. I brought hard-boiled eggs so the only thing we needed to do was to peel the shell off the eggs. We had bread with us too. It was delicious with hot soup and bread to dip in it. 

After dinner, we were back in the tent. We chatted and drew each other. The next day, we cooked the same soup for breakfast. It rained while we were having breakfast. We cleared up under the rain. When we got back into the tent, the rain stopped for a while and rained again. When it drizzled, we started to pack and tried to dry off the tent as much as we can. We took the 12.37pm boat back to Nynäshamn arriving at 1.30pm. Also 104kr for the return boat ticket.

It was a lovely short weekend to camp at a new spot. I got to know my friend a little more and I got to enjoy peace and quiet in the nature.

Archipelago - Finnhamn and Ingmarsö: Part 3 - Departure back to Stockholm

26 July 2025

Cost
1) Boat ticket - SEK186
2) Sandwich and 2 coffee - SEK121 

Time to depart to Stockholm today. Our boat departs at 12.10pm. My cottage and I. We hung our clothes to dry outside the cottage. We hung under the rail as there was bird poop on the top.

Other guests can pay to shower in the hostel for SEK20. Towel can be rented for SEK35. The reception is closed in the evening so I think others would have showered here without the staff knowing.

First, breakfast. One can sit outside to have breakfast too. When it is sunny, it can get very hot and not enjoyable to have breakfast. Yesterday, some guests had breakfast outside and came in as it got too hot for them.

Now, we check out. This is a small shed outside the hostel to put the luggage so that the staff can collect them and put in the jetty for departure.

This is where the staff collects the luggage from arriving guests at the jetty to be sent to the hostel.

We managed a last dip at the beach opposite the restaurant before we took the boat back. 

Light lunch on the boat. 

We were back in Stockholm 3 hours later. I would definitely recommend to do the hiking trails on the island during autumn where it is cooling and mosquitoes don't attack you. For the activities of suntanning and taking a dip in the waters, I am not a big fan of doing it in these islands. The entries from sandy beaches has many dead seaweeds or relatively big stones (the beach near the sauna). Most entries have to be done from large rocks where one can hop in and I am not good at that. 

Archipelago - Finnhamn and Ingmarsö: Day 2 - Explore Ingmarsö - Row boat, bakery, bar

25 July 2025

Costs

1) Fika at Ingmarsö bakery - 2 buns SEK90, 2 iced latte SEK120

2) Drinks at Ingmarsö bar - Cocktail drink SEK145

3) Dinner at Finnhamn rooftop bar - Salami pizza SEK175, Mango and pineapple pizza SEK175, Cocktail mango SEK135, 400ml landsort beer SEK95

The Story

Today, we will row a boat to Ingmarsö and explore the island. One can take Waxholms boat too but the ticket is quite expensive despite it being one or two stops away, depending which boat route it is and which stop - south or north of Ingmarsö. The price ranges from SEK61 to SEK86. Also, check the timetable. 

First, we have breakfast that is included in our accommodation. Simple breakfast of yoghurt and granola, bread, buns with fillings, boiled egg, juice and coffee. 

Archipelago - Finnhamn and Ingmarsö: Day 1 - Explore Stora Jolpan and Idholmen

This summer, I took the opportunity to explore two islands on Stockholm archipelago. I read about the Stockholm Archipelago Trail (SAT) that was completed last October. Some islands were selected to set up hiking trails. The hiking trails can be easy or moderate. I chose Finnhamn and Ingmarsö, as these two islands seem to have it all - a bakery in Ingmarsö, restaurant and a hostel. Plus a relatively easy hiking trail. Finnhamn is an archipelago by itself being a group of islands, most notably Stora Jolpan, Idholmen, and Lilla Jolpan. 

The trip was planned at the end of June, which was less than a month from our travel date. Since this is a short 3-days trip, I was not worried about planning this last minute. There was no problem in booking accommodation in the hostel. We booked a 2 bed cottage which includes breakfast. The cottage is outside the main building, about less than a minute walk. 

24 July 2025

Costs

1) Boat ticket - SEK186 one-way

2) Accommodation - 3 days 2 nights for a 2-bed cottage including breakfast - SEK2340. Additional SEK200 for rented bedsheet, comforter cover, pillowcase, and towel. It costs SEK180 if booked online. SEK785 per person per night including beddings. 

3) 2 Coffee and bun on boat - SEK89. There is a Fika offer (1 bun and 1 coffee) for SEK60.

4) Cocktail drink at the Rooftop bar (Takbar) - SEK145

5) Dinner at restaurant (there is only restaurant on Stora Jolpan island) - Toast skagen SEK265, cocktail Paradiset (vanilla vodka, sour apple, lime and sprite) SEK145, passion fruit cheesecake SEK130, pot au chocolate SEK120

The Story

We started our trip from Strömkajen, the jetty located in Kungträdgården. We took the 8.30am boat by Waxholmsbolaget and we were scheduled to arrive 3 hours later at Finnhamn. This is the last stop for the boat route and it makes its way back to Stockholm. During the summer, Waxholmsbolaget has its own ticket price. After the summer season, one can use the SL-train card to travel to the archipelago which is cheaper at SEK43 but there are not much activities after summer. 

There is a cafe on the boat with options for lunch, pastries, ice-cream, coffee and tea. Toilets are clean too.

Overnight camping on Utö

2 November 2019

I read recently that November is the most horrible month in Sweden. It gets darker and colder. December is better because there is snow and it is white. Plus, people have acclimatized to the darkness in November. So, many people do not like November. This is my third November in Sweden and I did not find it a problem in the first two Novembers. So, I read that one of the methods to beat the dark and cold November is to be out as often as possible, in the nature or in restaurants. Just do not stay at home and mope. I started my November right by camping on the first weekend!

We went to Utö which is one of the islands on the archipelago. This island is huge and has all the facilities for tourists - a hotel, an inn, many cottages, and a hiking trail that is well taken care of. We took the commuter train to Västerhaninge station and took the bus to Årsta brygga, and finally the ferry to Utö. We reached the jetty at 10.13am and arrived on the island at 10.55am. All the transportation is covered under the SL train card. You can guess that it was really cold. It was 3 degrees that weekend.

This shed that is by the jetty has two toilets, water and seats but no heater. 

Mushroom picking at Ingarö

12 October 2019

Mushroom picking at Ingarö! Ingarö is an island in one of Stockholm's archipelago. A friend invited a few of us to pick mushrooms in the area. We got there by car and arrived by 1030am. We went to a small forest and picked mushrooms for an hour. There were so many yellow foot chanterelles. We had 3 full baskets at the end of the hour. 

At the end of mushroom picking, we grilled sausages and bread. I had the nicest, warmest hotdog with pickled cucumber, tomato sauce and mustard.